Incredible Hikes, Eats, and Views in Jasper National Park

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Day 7: Pyramid Island, Lake Annette, Edith Lake

Our day begins with a stroll through the quaint streets of Jasper. Despite the reluctance we sometimes feel getting up early, this is one of the fun parts of traveling with a dog. Lincoln lovingly forces us to get to know each town, explore different areas, and find local parks and walking paths.

Living in a bigger city when we’re not traveling, I love this chance to see what it’s like living in various small towns across the United States and Canada, especially when we get to temporarily call home a small mountain town. The small-town mountain charm of Jasper is palpable. Whether it’s the fresh air, smaller population, or abundance of scenic beauty, this is one of those towns where just being here feels good.

We walk along the town’s two main streets, Connaught Drive, where our hotel is located, and Patricia Street, until we make our way to Bear Paw’s Bakery. (Because no morning stroll is complete without coffee and pastries from a local bakery, amirite?)

With hot coffee, a sausage roll, and two slices of delicious banana bread in hand, we make our way to Patricia and Pyramid Lakes, about a 10-minute drive from town. Lincoln runs along the beach shores while Jonathan and I finish breakfast, watching early morning kayakers set out into the mirrored waters of Pyramid Lake.

Just around the corner, we stumble upon a small parking lot with a footbridge to Pyramid Island.

Pyramid Island is named after Pyramid Mountain, the highest peak in the Jasper townsite vicinity. Pyramid Mountain provides a breathtaking backdrop to the island, which sits on Pyramid Lake and is connected to the mainland by a short boardwalk.

We walk the entirety of Pyramid Island, which only takes about 20 minutes. There are many viewpoints along the way to pause and enjoy the view as well as the serenity of this small island.

We won’t learn this until visiting the Jasper Planetarium tomorrow night, but stargazing is one of the best things to do at Pyramid Island. Jasper National Park is a Dark Sky Preserve, and with minimal light pollution, Pyramid Island is one of the best spots within all of Jasper National Park to enjoy the Milky Way, constellations, and an occasional sighting of the Northern Lights.

With nothing specific on our agenda today (a rarity for us!), our impromptu tour of the lakes throughout Jasper National Park continues as we make our way to Edith Lake and Lake Annette next.

We had considered taking a long hike today, specifically hiking Opal Peak or Bald Hills, but sometimes it’s nice to pivot in favor of a more laid-back pace — and, you know, to have yet another reason to come back by saving something for next time! 😎

The Edith Lake and Lake Annette area is pet and family-friendly, with lots of benches, beach-front access, and picnic areas to hang out as long as you’d like. It’s a cool, partly sunny day, so we soak up the stunning views at Edith Lake, then follow the approximately two-mile Lake Annette Loop. It’s a fairly easy walk through a lush pine forest with great views of the surrounding mountains and Lake Annette itself.

We enjoy our walk, especially with Lincoln in tow, but you definitely don’t have to follow this trail for amazing lake views. You don’t really have to follow any trail to get an incredible view in Jasper National Park. Sure, there are additional sights to see the further you walk, but here in Jasper, the natural wonders really are everywhere.

In fact, the views are so abundant and so grand that it’s easy to lose track of just how extraordinary each one is.

Meaning… in many other places, driving, hiking, or backpacking to any ONE of these lakes would be worthwhile. It’d be a reason to wake up early, drive a few hours, and walk uphill both ways… because the view is that impressive, the lake is that refreshing, and you just don’t get to see places like this every day.

But here in Jasper National Park, and along the Canadian Rockies in general, access to jaw-dropping beauty is so plentiful that you almost have to remind yourself how mind-blowing what you’re witnessing truly is.

I said it along the Icefields Parkway, and I can’t help but say it again: How does so much beauty exist in one place?

The proximity and abundant access to natural wonders single-handedly make the Canadian Rockies one of the most spectacular road trips in North America.

As I’m sure comes as no surprise if you’ve read all of our travelogues, traveling encourages us to reflect differently and more often than we do when in our normal routine at home. So, as we’re finishing the Lake Annette Loop, I notice Jonathan smiling and ask what he’s thinking about.

He tells me, “I’m just thinking about where we are and everything we’re seeing and how much we’ve sped up our travels over the last few years. I mean, thinking back to 2017, we were skipping vacations and canceling trips left and right for work.” (We canceled our vacation to Utah’s “Mighty 5” and a separate road trip to Oklahoma in favor of new roles and jobs between 2017 and 2019.)

“Now,” he continues, “We’re taking vacation days from work left and right to travel.”

We started traveling in 2019 when Jonathan was offered a remote role. (I’ve been working remotely since 2015.) Partly because we wanted to “catch up” after skipping vacations and canceling trips for the 2.5 years prior, we spent a year as digital nomads of sorts, roadtripping around the United States. Since then, we’ve been able to visit some of our dream destinations, such as the Canadian Rockies.

The more we travel, the more we don’t take these years for granted. There’s so much to see, and today, as we spontaneously tour four lakes in Jasper National Park, we’re feeling especially in awe of that decision to hit the road in 2019. We had absolutely no idea all that was ahead!

The sun’s rays are lighting up slivers of water along the shore, and Lake Annette seems like the perfect place to read a book in a hammock strung between two trees. But it’s lunchtime by now, and we’re ready to eat.

We shortly find ourselves back in town at Jasper Wafflato. Lincoln and I grab a table on the street-side patio, while Jonathan orders the “Strawberry Delight,” a Belgian waffle topped with whipped cream, fresh strawberries, and a drizzle of dark chocolate sauce… and the “Chicken Avocado Waffle,” a Belgian waffle served with chicken tenders, avocado, and mixed greens drizzled with Chipotle sauce. (Plus one peanut butter smoothie and one wildberry smoothie to wash it down!)

As we refuel with the epitome of comfort food after our laid-back morning in this charming, laid-back town, there’s zero doubt in either of our minds: We’re falling more in love with Jasper National Park with every passing second (and bite 😋)!

Once our plates are clean, we return to our hotel for a brief nap for Jonathan and Lincoln and some light work for me. Later, we venture out for dinner, exploring the galleries and shops that line the streets of Jasper. We settle on a "Mr. Pepperoni" pizza, the perfect counterpart for watching our first NFL game of the season as we dine.

Tomorrow, we gear up for another fun, full day in Jasper National Park!

Day 8: Valley of the Five Lakes, Jasper Park Lodge

The weather is perfect when we wake up, so we’re happy to get out of bed early and drive just 12 minutes to the Valley of the Five Lakes trailhead. This is one of the most popular hikes in Jasper National Park! We’d planned to hike it on our final day along the Icefields Parkway, but poor visibility and rain kept us from doing so.

Driving past the pink mountains that are waking up with the sun, we’re so glad we took the rain delay. It’s a crisp, dry fall morning. The sun is shining. And there are only a handful of other cars in the parking lot when we arrive.

Valley of the Five Lakes is the perfect early morning fall hike. We enjoy the crisp September air, mountain reflections mirrored in the lakes, and the stillness of being on the trail before the crowds. It feels good to hike after our more laid-back day yesterday, and we’re always happy to find a dog-friendly hike that lets Lincoln join us and stretch her legs, too!

Along the approximately 3-mile loop, we pass forests, meadows, and, as the hike is aptly named, five different lakes, each with its own charm. We hike counter-clockwise, so we pass Fifth Lake first and First Lake fifth, and by the time we arrive at two of Parks Canada’s iconic red chairs on Third Lake, we get these two outdoor thrones all to ourselves!

It’s around 9:30 am when we finish the Valley of the Five Lakes trail and get back to our car. The trail is definitely getting busier as we pass multiple groups starting their trek, but the parking lot isn’t yet full.

On our way back into town, we encounter just our third wildlife spotting of the trip— a bull elk crossing the road in front of us! His antlers are one more reminder fall is here and bringing with it the elk rut 🍂

Bull elk crossing the road near the town of Jasper - notice his breath!!!

After a quick stop for breakfast at Snow Dome Coffee Bar in town, we check out of our hotel and head in the direction of our final night’s stay in Jasper National Park. We drive past the turn we took yesterday for Edith Lake and Lake Annette, and instead continue driving Old Lodge Road until we pass through the entrance to Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge.

As we drive toward the resort’s lobby, Jonathan's phone chimes with a message so perfectly timed as he reads aloud, "Good morning, Mr. Welch, your room is now ready..." 😍😍😍

It’s just 11:06 am, and we’re already checking into our lakeside retreat for the next 24 hours in Jasper National Park.

We immediately feel more relaxed as we drive through the resort to the hotel lobby. I read somewhere that the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge is like a luxuriously tranquil adult summer camp. I can’t help but agree and think someone (ahem: me, though I suspect Jonathan, too) could get used to this level of comfort right next door to one of the most beautiful national parks in the world…

Click the link below to read all about our 24 hours at the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge!

Hotel Review: 24 Hours at Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge

As we check into the hotel, we’re just dropping our things, quickly taking in the view, and then heading back into the park for an afternoon at Maligne Canyon and Spirit Island.

Alongside the Valley of the 5 Lakes hike, these are two more of the most popular and beautiful things to do in Jasper National Park. Since we’ll be here for only one more night, we want to see as much as we can before hitting the road tomorrow.

Maligne Canyon is first on our agenda, as it’s only a short drive from Jasper Park Lodge. It’s dog-friendly, so Lincoln begrudgingly gets up from her nap to join us for the hike around the canyon.

Located in Jasper National Park, Maligne Canyon was carved over thousands of years by the rushing waters of the Maligne River. The option to hike through the canyon is one of the reasons it's so popular; the narrow winding passages are fun to explore, with towering cliffs often on both sides of the trail.

When we arrive at Maligne Canyon, it's midday, and the area is busy. But we’re able to find a parking spot and begin our hike fairly easily. You can pick and choose your adventure here, deciding how far you’d like to go and how many of the lakes and bridges you’d like to make it to. Our recommendation, for whenever you find yourself here, is to hike clockwise out and back to visit the first through fourth bridges and skip the fifth and sixth unless you’re looking for a long, dog-friendly walk through the woods.

Knowing everything that’s waiting for us at Jasper Park Lodge, we’d have been happier to skip the fifth and sixth bridge (which, pro tip, you can actually drive to), but I’m sure Lincoln wouldn’t agree. She loved trotting through the woods in this much quieter section of Maligne Canyon.

We have more than enough time at Maligne Canyon, but our walk to the additional bridges means we have to hustle to the next excursion on our agenda. We’re headed to Spirit Island, one of if not the most gorgeous and picturesque settings in all of Jasper National Park! We drop Lincoln off back at the hotel and start retracing our steps past the turnoff for Malgine Canyon until we reach a boarding area for cruises to Spirit Island.

Spirit Island is an iconic spot in Jasper. It’s generally the most well-known spot in Jasper National Park, even if you only recognize its photograph and not its location. Spirit Island is a small island located in Maligne Lake, encased on three sides by the same mountain range, the Queen Elizabeth Mountains, which form a “J” shape around the island. (Fun fact: Spirit Island is only actually an island in the spring after snowmelt and rainfall raise the water levels of Maligne Lake.)

The only way to get to Spirit Island is by boat, whether you take a short trip by cruise like we’re doing or you opt for a self-guided full-day kayak. Once at Spirit Island, there’s a very short trail to some incredible viewpoints. If you opt for the cruise, you get just a short amount of time on land, but it doesn’t take long to appreciate the beauty of this place.

Our original itinerary had us cruising to Spirit Island the day before (Thursday), but we didn’t book far enough in advance, and our desired timeslot was sold out. (We wanted to visit the hour or so before sunset, which is approximately 4:45 pm in early September because we read the lighting is best that time of day for photography.) It worked out okay, though, because today (Friday) is significantly more clear weather-wise, yay!

For our cruise to Spirit Island, we drive Maligne Road past Maligne Canyon, then Medicine Lake, until we reach a public parking lot for Malgine Lake. Maligne Road is a prime area for wildlife viewing in Jasper National Park, and the views as you approach Medicine Lake are absolutely stunning on a clear afternoon day. Medicine Lake is actually really interesting, not just for its beauty but because it’s a lake that disappears into a cave system below. The lake often appears completely dry by fall. 🤯

We arrive at the parking lot about 20 minutes before our boarding time, and to our surprise, people have arrived much earlier than that to get in line for the best seats on the boat. (Pro tip: Sit at the window on the left side of the boat going toward Spirit Island if possible. But truly, no rush to get here early. All the seats are good, and you’re here to see Spirit Island from land anyway!)

Once we’re all boarded, we enjoy a guided tour across Malgine Lake. We ride past the Maligne Mountains, which at their peak height were as tall as the modern-day Himalayas, but because their rock composition is sandstone, the mountains have been eroding over time.

The ride continues, and after about 35 minutes, we arrive at Spirit Island and follow a very short trail to two viewpoints before spending some leisure time along the shore for more photographs. Spirit Island is absolutely STUNNING, and we immediately understand why it’s one of the most recognizable locations in all of Jasper National Park. This is one place where photographs do the beauty justice, even if they can’t quite pick up on the tranquility felt in person.

According to the Banff Jasper Collection, which operates the cruise to Spirit Island, “{Spirit} island is a spiritual place for the Stoney Nakoda First Nation, who believe mountains are physical representations of their ancestors. The fact that Spirit Island is surrounded on three sides by the same mountain range is very rare and makes it particularly significant to the Stoney.”

We’re asked to respect the spiritual meaning of this island when we hop off the boat and begin the short hike to its viewpoints. The importance of this area is something you can feel right away, and even more so when standing at the shores looking out toward Spirit Island. It’s an absolutely magical view.

About an hour and a half later… after we reboard the boat, cruise back to our starting destination on Maligne Lake, and drive Maligne Road back to Jasper Park Lodge… we’re ready to relax by the pool!

The skies are clearing up for us more and more as the sun goes down, and we’re glad because we have a fun activity tonight that Jonathan has really been looking forward to. We’re visiting the Jasper Planetarium!

Jasper National Park is designated as a Dark Sky Preserve, making it a great location for stargazing and observing the night sky free from light pollution.

After a quick change of clothes and bundling up in the warmest jackets we brought, we head through the lobby of the lodge and up a flight of stairs to the Jasper Planetarium. We spent about two hours learning about the skies in Jasper National Park, then trying our hand at being amateur astronomers, looking through some of the largest telescopes in the North American Rockies. It was a really cool experience that ultimately let us see Saturn and its rings, Vega, the North Star, the Big and Little Dippers, and much more of the Milky Way.

(Fun fact: About 12,000 years ago, Vega was the North Star. But Vega is actually two stars… one that appears yellow and one that appears blue, and you can see both from the telescope!)

We learned about comets and meteorites and even learned that it is possible to see the aurora (Northern Lights) this time of year, though only once about every two weeks. The best time of year to see the Northern Lights in Jasper is typically late August to late April.

After our long, amazing day in Jasper National Park, we're ready for bed. We have just two more days to make the most out of our roadtrip through the Rockies!

Days 9-10: The Icefields Parkway, Waterton Lakes National Park, Glacier

I wish we had one more day to lay by the pool, walk the lakeshore, get dinner on the outdoor terrace, and then maybe grab a lakeside s’more before enjoying a glass of wine from our patio… But I guess we’re just saving something for next time 😄 and for now, we’ll make the most out of our morning before checking out.

After a morning swim, we grab a casual breakfast and take it back to our patio so Lincoln can join us. While I finish every last sip of my coffee and cinnamon roll, Jonathan ducks out a little early to get a couple of shots up on the basketball court across the resort. (The perfect blend of his and her activities 😄)

It’s time for us to officially leave Jasper and start our 7-hour drive to Waterton Lakes National Park.

To get there, we’re retracing our steps along the Icefields Parkway. And unlike our three-night stay along the parkway earlier in our trip, we have perfect weather and clear, blue skies for today’s drive! It’s even more stunning as you see just how imposing the mountains are along the road.

It’s 11 pm by the time we arrive at Waterton Lakes National Park and set up our car camp for the night. Tomorrow, we officially end our Canadian Rockies Road Trip as we spend the morning exploring Waterton Lakes before making our way back to the States for our next stay in Glacier National Park.

While the Icefields Parkway might be the most spectacular road trip in the world, the Going-to-the-Sun Road gives it a run for its money and just may top our list as the prettiest scenic drive in any US National Park. (Jonathan even says it might beat the Icefields Parkway based on view per square mile. 😱) It is kind of spectacular when you don’t know which direction to look or which mirror to look out of because every single angle competes with one another…